Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always defined its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
